Västra Hamnen: Home of the Last Windjammers
Mariehamn's Western Harbour (Västra Hamnen) is one of the city's two main harbours and is central to its maritime identity. The city itself was founded by decree of Russian Emperor Alexander II on February 21, 1861, and named for his wife, Empress Maria Alexandrovna. The harbour's deep-water access and its tendency to remain ice-free in winter made it a strategic location for shipping.
The Last Great Age of Sail
While steamships dominated global trade in the early 20th century, Mariehamn became the unlikely center of the world's last great commercial sailing fleet. This was due to shipowner Gustaf Erikson, who established his company here in 1913. Erikson defied the technological trend by purchasing windjammers, often at low prices, and operating them profitably.
Between 1913 and 1947, Erikson's fleet grew to include 46 sailing vessels. These ships were primarily engaged in the demanding grain trade, making long voyages from Australia to Europe, often navigating the treacherous Cape Horn route. The harbour became a bustling hub where aspiring sailors from around the world sought apprenticeships on these deep-sea vessels.
The Legendary Pommern
Permanently moored in the Western Harbour is the four-masted barque Pommern, a key part of Erikson's fleet. Built in Glasgow in 1903, the ship was acquired by Erikson in 1923. The Pommern became famous for winning the informal 'Great Grain Race' from Australia to Europe in both 1930 and 1937.
The vessel earned a reputation as a 'lucky ship,' having survived both World Wars without damage and losing only four crew members at sea during its entire career. In 1957, the Pommern became a museum ship, offering a tangible connection to the era of commercial sail.
The Harbour Today
Today, the Western Harbour is a busy international port, serving as Finland's third-busiest for international passengers in 2018. Ferries provide daily connections to Sweden, Estonia, and mainland Finland. A significant driver for this traffic is Åland's status outside the EU customs zone, which allows for duty-free sales on board.
Alongside the Pommern, visitors will find the Åland Maritime Museum, which details the region's seafaring history. The area also includes the ÅSS guest harbour, a popular meeting spot with the ÅSS Paviljongen restaurant, designed by prominent architect Lars Sonck. The harbour also hosts maritime events like The Tall Ships Races.
FAQ
Why was Mariehamn's Western Harbour important for sailing ships?
The Western Harbour was the home port for Gustaf Erikson's fleet, the world's last major commercial sailing fleet. Its deep-water access and mostly ice-free conditions made it a strategic, year-round hub for the global grain trade.
Who was Gustaf Erikson?
Gustaf Erikson was an Åland shipowner who, starting in 1913, assembled and profitably operated the world's last fleet of commercial windjammers, defying the global shipping industry's transition to steam power.
What is the Pommern?
The Pommern is a four-masted barque that was part of Gustaf Erikson's fleet. It was famous for its success in the 'Great Grain Race' from Australia. Since 1957, it has been a museum ship moored in the Western Harbour.
What can be found at the Western Harbour today?
Today, the Western Harbour is a busy international ferry port. It is also a major cultural site, featuring the museum ship Pommern, the Åland Maritime Museum, a guest harbour, and restaurants like the ÅSS Paviljongen.
