Bath Abbey

Tips and tours for explorers and travellers

Bath City Guide

Ciceru's Bath route links the Georgian curve of the Royal Crescent and The Circus with the Roman Baths and Bath Abbey, tracing the honey coloured stone that got the whole city centre inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It also crosses Pulteney Bridge, lined with shops on both sides.

See the Bath tours
Country
United Kingdom
Language
English
Currency
British Pound (GBP)
Plug
type G
Time zone
Europe/London
Emergency
112, 101, and 999
Tap water
Safe to drink
Dialling code
+44
Best timeDec–FebBath Christmas Market · Quiet streets, few crowdsSee the weather →Time needed1 daysSee the itinerary →Getting aroundLocal bus (First Bus)£3.00 fare capHow to get around →Neighbourhoods5 to knowCentral Bath, Walcot and Green Park, BathwickWhere to stay →

The stops

Things to do in Bath

Our Bath routes concentrate on the UNESCO listed Georgian core, from The Circus and Royal Crescent down through Milsom Street to the Abbey and the Roman Baths, then east across Pulteney Bridge into the quieter streets of Bathwick.

Hot water and high society

<p>Welcome to Bath.</p> <p>This city didn't begin with a castle or a king. It began with hot water.</p> <p>On this Ciceru tour, we are going to trace the city's rise, both literally and socially. We will walk from the ancient river level up to the exclusive heights of the Royal Crescent. It is a journey through Roman engineering, Medieval grit, and the golden architecture of the Georgian era.</p> <p>I’ll be your guide to the stories hidden in the limestone. We have a lot of ground to cover, so let’s get moving.</p> <p>We start our journey here in the Abbey Churchyard. While the queue next to you might be long, the history beneath your feet is even longer.</p> <p>You are currently standing on top of Aquae Sulis. This was the Roman name for the city, meaning "The Waters of Sulis." When Roman engineers arrived here around 70 AD, they found a hot, swampy spring revered by the locals. But the Romans didn't just conquer the site. They translated it.</p> <p>They took the local Celtic goddess, Sulis, and identified her with their own goddess, Minerva. This wasn't a crude mash-up of a nature spirit and a war deity. It was a sophisticated theological merger based on their shared power of healing and wisdom. The result was Sulis Minerva, a powerful figure who presided over a complex of pools that were as much a hospital as they were a place of worship.</p> <p>The building you see in front of you is the Grand Pump Room. It is much newer, built in the 1790s. This is where high-society Georgians would come to drink the water rather than swim in it. If you look at the Greek inscription above the columns, it reads Ariston Men Hydor, or "Water is Best."</p> <p>Although you are standing on the dry pavement of the 21st century, the ancient plumbing is still hard at work below you. The spring gushes over a million liters of water every day at a steaming 46°C.</p> <p>Beneath the museum floor, the original Roman drain still functions. It carries the waste water out to the river just as it did two thousand years ago. We call that heritage hydraulics.</p> <p>But it wasn't all wellness and relaxation down there. The Romans also used the sacred spring to air their grievances. Archaeologists have found lead "curse tablets" thrown into the water, inscribed with angry messages to the goddess. They usually asked for revenge against thieves or unfaithful lovers. It seems that even in the first century, people loved leaving a bad review.</p> <p>This spot is the thermal heart of the city. Everything we will see next, from the Abbey to the grand houses on the hill, only exists because the Romans decided to stop here for a soak.</p> <p>Now, turn your attention to the massive stone structure looming right next to the Baths. It is time to look at the Medieval layer of the city.</p>

The ladder of angels

<p>At first glance, Bath Abbey looks like a Gothic cathedral that has learned to smile politely. Its lacy stone facade and sprawling windows catch the sunlight with improbable optimism. This is especially impressive for a building that has been sacked, neglected, and rebuilt more times than your average Tudor table.</p> <p>It began in the 7th century as a monastery, but the structure standing before you is a 15th-century reboot in the Perpendicular Gothic style. Note the high ceilings and the massive tall windows. The walls seem unsure whether they are structural or merely decorative frames for the glass.</p> <p>Now, let’s address a local myth. You will often hear that this site hosted the coronation of England’s "first" King, Edgar, in 973 AD. That is not entirely true.</p> <p>Athelstan, his uncle, was actually crowned King of the Anglo-Saxons nearly fifty years earlier in 925 AD. However, Bath still holds a vital place in royal history. Edgar’s ceremony here introduced a specific service and liturgy that created the template for every British coronation that followed. So while he wasn't the first, he set the style that Charles III used over a thousand years later.</p> <p>Turning your eyes to the stone facade itself, the West Front demands a pause. Look closely at the turrets flanking the main window. You will see angels climbing up and tumbling down stone ladders.</p> <p>This unique design was inspired by a dream allegedly sent to Bishop Oliver King in 1499. It was possibly a divine epiphany, or possibly the result of questionable wine. Regardless of the source, the imagery stuck. It makes for a compelling sermon carved directly into the limestone.</p> <p>Because we are staying outside, you can't smell the beeswax or hear the choir, but you can appreciate why this building is nicknamed the "Lantern of the West." The walls are more glass than stone. If you were to step inside, you would find yourself surrounded by over 1,000 memorial tablets on the walls. It serves as a densely annotated "Who's Who" of Georgian grief. It is part church and part vertical graveyard.</p> <p>It is easy to be distracted by the grandeur. Yet the Abbey’s most enduring trait is continuity. Despite regimes, reforms, and restorations, it persists in holy matrimony with its historic setting.</p> <p>Tucked around the corner, a humbler structure claims both culinary fame and medieval roots. Let’s go sample the famous Bath Bun at one of the city's oldest houses.</p>

A bite of 1482

<p>Few buildings dare to boast both medieval architecture and a menu. Sally Lunn’s pulls it off.</p> <p>You are standing in front of one of the oldest houses in Bath. Dating back to 1482, this structure was already old before Henry VIII had his first heartbreak. If you look at the rough stone masonry and the way the house sits slightly lower than the modern street level, you can see how much the city has risen around it over the centuries.</p> <p>Now, let’s talk about the legend. You might hear a romantic story about a French Huguenot refugee named "Solange Luyon" who fled to Bath in 1680 to bake brioche.</p> <p>I hate to ruin a good story, but that is likely a fabrication. Historical records suggest the "Solange" character was invented in 1937 by the tea shop owner, Marie Byng-Johnson, to add a little French flair to her marketing. The real "Sally Lunn" was more likely a hawker selling buns in the streets of Bath in the late 1700s.</p> <p>But while the baker might be a myth, the bun is very real. It is a golden, airy carb-cloud that tourists queue for daily.</p> <p>There is another secret here that you cannot see from the alley. Beneath the floorboards of the dining room lies a Roman hypocaust system.</p> <p>This was the ancient version of central heating. Hot air from a furnace was circulated through empty spaces under the floor, keeping the Romans warm in the damp British winter. It is a literal "hot plate" of the Empire resting right beneath the modern bakehouse.</p> <p>Locals treat this place like a mildly eccentric aunt. It is loved, a bit theatrical, and possibly stretching the truth, but it is part of the family regardless. Because in Bath, even your bun tells a story.</p> <p>After a bite steeped in legend, let’s retreat to a quieter pleasure. We will head to the riverside gardens for a view of the famous weir.</p>

Flirting under supervision

<p>Look down over the stone balustrade into the manicured green space below. This is Parade Gardens.</p> <p>In the 18th century, this was the answer to a specific social problem. The city planners needed a place where the wealthy could flirt under supervision.</p> <p>Planted with both flowers and strict codes of Georgian decorum, it quickly became Bath’s open-air ballroom. It was a genteel promenade for spa-goers to dry off after their morning plunge.</p> <p>Today, the gardens feed packed lunches and selfie sticks rather than scandalous glances. But the fragrance of precisely arranged blooms still wafts up with practiced grace.</p> <p>They may look like just another park, but dig a little and you will find the past refusing to stay buried.</p> <p>In 1997, an archaeological excavation took place right beneath those neat flower beds. You might hear rumors that they discovered a lost Roman temple precinct here.</p> <p>That is a lovely thought, but it is untrue.</p> <p>What they actually found was the "Great Drain". This was the massive Roman culvert designed to carry waste and overflow away from the Baths and into the river.</p> <p>It seems we often go looking for sacred architecture and find plumbing instead. But in Bath, the plumbing is just as impressive as the temples.</p> <p>Back in the Georgian heyday, entry into these lawns required the right pedigree and a subscription fee. Today you still have to pay a small fee to enter, but the only pedigree required is a tolerance for goose prints.</p> <p>Nothing mythic springs from Parade Gardens today unless you count high-society gossip. But its role endures as a pause button in a city built for display.</p> <p>From this vantage point, turn your head to the left. You are perfectly positioned to see our next stop. It is one of only a few bridges worldwide with shops built into its structure.</p>

The Florentine bridge

<p>Pulteney Bridge might be the closest Bath gets to theatrical overkill. It is a graceful Georgian structure draped in boutiques and strewn across the Avon like a limestone doily.</p> <p>Built in 1774 by Robert Adam, it is often said that this bridge was built to rival the Ponte Vecchio in Florence. That is a nice story, but the truth is more local and mercenary.</p> <p>The bridge was actually a piece of aggressive real estate marketing. The landowner, William Pulteney, wanted to connect his estate in Bathwick to the city center. He wasn't trying to outshine Florence. He was trying to compete with the fashionable west side of Bath.</p> <p>Adam’s design is technically a copy of a copy. He based it on Andrea Palladio’s rejected design for the Rialto Bridge in Venice.</p> <p>You might hear a rumor that Adam originally wanted a massive central dome here but was rejected due to cost. That is a case of mistaken identity. Adam never planned a central dome. He designed a temple-like pediment for the center and placed small saucer domes on the pavilions at the far ends. Furthermore, his design wasn't rejected for being too expensive. In fact, his expensive plan was chosen over a cheaper rival.</p> <p>As you walk across, you will notice shops lining both sides. Unless you lean over the parapet to look at the roaring weir below, you might not notice you have crossed water at all. This was exactly the sort of sleight of hand Georgian planners delighted in.</p> <p>Legend also whispers of secret rooms and passageways hidden in the bridge's underbelly.</p> <p>In reality, these "secrets" are well-documented shop cellars and structural voids designed to handle floods. It turns out that in Bath, even the mysteries have practical explanations.</p> <p>Now, let's head uphill to where tailoring once met literary cameos. We are going to window shop along the street favored by Jane Austen's characters.</p>

The fashion parade

<p>Milsom Street has always known its angles.</p> <p>Laid out in the mid-18th century with a gentle curve and a hint of architectural swagger, it was Bath’s catwalk long before that meant flashing cameras. Here, wealth wasn’t hidden. It was tailored, perfumed, and on public display. Think Fitzwilliam Darcy with a pocket watch addiction.</p> <p>During the Georgian era, this was the epicenter of polite consumerism. It was packed with tailors, milliners, bookstores, and jewelers.</p> <p>Jane Austen, never one to miss a detail, made Milsom Street a recurring character in her novels. You might read in some guidebooks that she described this as Bath’s "principal street of entrance." That is actually a misquote. In Northanger Abbey, her characters usually stayed in Great Pulteney Street or the Paragon. However, Milsom Street was the undisputed social hub where they went to check the windows, track down fashionable hats, and accidentally-on-purpose run into eligible bachelors.</p> <p>Today, it remains a retail thoroughfare, albeit one dressed in Zara rather than muslin. The architecture is still the star. Look at the restrained facades in Bath stone. Notice the bow windows on the upper floors that seem to watch passersby like silent chaperones.</p> <p>Under the cobbles, rumor has it there are clandestine passageways. Locals might tell you these were Georgian shortcuts for illicit affairs. That is probably untrue. They were likely just service vaults for coal and deliveries. But the idea that fashion once required escape routes is, in itself, delightfully on-brand for Milsom Street.</p> <p>The rhythmic clack of shoes still echoes here. It confirms that style in Bath has never really gone out of fashion. It just updates seasonally.</p> <p>Just a few doors away awaits the city’s most famous reluctant resident. Let’s go see where the legend of Jane Austen meets the souvenir shop.</p>

The reluctant resident

<p>The Jane Austen Centre has a simple premise. What if we took a woman known for social satire and turned her into a waxwork?</p> <p>It is housed in this classic Georgian townhouse here on Gay Street. This is just a stone’s throw from where Austen actually lived. She resided higher up the hill at number 25 after her father died.</p> <p>If you are lucky, you will see a staff member in full Regency costume standing right here by the door. It is proof that top hats and petticoats never go out of fashion if you ignore the weather forecast.</p> <p>Austen lived in Bath from 1801 to 1806. She did not love it. In fact, she found it noisy, hot, and expensive. But she mined it for material. She used the streets you have just walked as the social petri dishes for her novels Northanger Abbey and Persuasion.</p> <p>There is no great myth here, unless you count the persistent rumor that Austen adored Bath. She didn't. But locals have embraced her anyway. They have effectively turned her mild disdain into excellent marketing.</p> <p>Even if you don't go inside, the building itself is a perfect example of the architecture she would have known. Gay Street acts as a connector. It links the commercial buzz of Milsom Street below to the exclusive residential heights above.</p> <p>Now, let's make that climb ourselves. Turn from fiction to geometry. We are going to marvel at a masterpiece of Georgian architecture comprised of three curved segments of townhouses.</p>

The Druid’s Colosseum

<p>Designed by John Wood the Elder and finished by his son in 1768, the Circus is a platinum example of what happens when British eccentricity meets Roman obsession.</p> <p>From above, the layout looks like a key. Some say it is a Masonic symbol. Others say it represents the eye of a serpent.</p> <p>You will often hear guides claim that the diameter of this circle is the same as the Colosseum in Rome. That is a myth. The Colosseum is nearly double the size of this space.</p> <p>The diameter here is exactly 318 feet. That number was chosen deliberately to match the outer earth bank of Stonehenge. John Wood was obsessed with the Druids. He believed Bath was a lost British Troy.</p> <p>However, the design of the houses is definitely Roman. Wood modeled the facades on the Colosseum but turned inside out. He didn't do this because he loved Rome. He did it because he believed the Romans had plagiarized the style from the Jewish Temple of Solomon and the British Druids. He was trying to reclaim the architecture for its "original" owners.</p> <p>Look closely at the three tiers of columns.</p> <p>They progress in complexity as they go up. The bottom is plain Doric. The middle is scrolled Ionic. The top is flowery Corinthian. It represents the ascent of civilization.</p> <p>On the roofline, you will see stone acorns. This is another nod to the Druids who worshipped the oak tree.</p> <p>In the center of the grassy circle, you see massive London Plane trees. Locals might tell you these were planted to match the height of the buildings. That is also untrue.</p> <p>The original design had no trees at all. It was a paved open theatre. Today, these trees tower over the rooftops and completely dwarf the Georgian architecture. They are beautiful, but they are very much an accident of history rather than a piece of precision planning.</p> <p>Whether or not the Circus forms a geomantic key, it unlocks a curious truth. Bath’s past was never just about order. It was about spectacle, belief, and the audacity of geometry.</p> <p>Step just beyond the circus arc to behold the finale. We are heading to the iconic crescent of 30 Grade I listed terraced houses.</p>

The architectural triumph

<p>We have arrived at our final stop. The Royal Crescent looks like it landed here during a particularly elegant apocalypse.</p> <p>Thirty townhouses in a perfect curl, designed by John Wood the Younger and built between 1767 and 1774, it was less "housing" and more of a real estate mic drop. Executed in the Palladian style with a dramatic sweep of Ionic columns, the Crescent was Bath’s answer to Versailles. It just came without the fountains and with more sheep.</p> <p>If you look at the lawn, you might notice a sunken fence line. This is called a "Ha-Ha." It was a clever landscape trick designed to keep the livestock out of the garden without interrupting the view from the drawing room windows.</p> <p>Behind the uniform front facade, however, lies chaos. Each owner finished their interior and rear as they pleased. If you were to see the back of the building, it looks like a row of rowdy cousins dressed for different occasions.</p> <p>Originally, this street was simply called "The Crescent." It did not gain the "Royal" prefix from Queen Charlotte, as rumors often claim. She visited later. The honorific was actually adopted around 1795 to celebrate a visit by Prince Frederick, the Duke of York.</p> <p>This is Bath at its most theatrical. It is a building that performs even when it is doing absolutely nothing.</p> <p>If you are not quite ready to end your exploration here, the city has a few more secrets tucked away. You might wander down Great Pulteney Street to find the Holburne Museum, which served as a grand estate in Bridgerton and houses a fantastic art collection. For a greener escape, the Skyline Walk offers panoramic views, or you can find the authentic Palladian Bridge in Prior Park Landscape Garden. And if all this history has made you hungry, you are in luck. You could return to the Pump Room for a traditional afternoon tea with a side of classical music, or for something less formal but equally legendary, seek out The Scallop Shell for what many claim is the best fish and chips in the country.</p> <p>From all of us at Ciceru, thank you for letting us share Bath’s social climb with you. We hope you enjoyed the Romans, the rumors, and the architecture. We cannot wait to walk with you again soon. Goodbye!</p>

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Plan the days

How many days in Bath? A perfect 1-day itinerary

Day 1

Roman spa city on the Avon

Walk Bath’s compact historic centre with the tour catalogue, then allow time for river climbs and the city’s broad Georgian avenues.

Weather & crowds

Best time to visit

June is driest at 55mm and warmest by day, but also when the season picks up. May and September trade a little rain for thinner crowds, September still reaches 19.1°C. Rain rises fast after August, to 87mm in October and 89mm in November. December is cold but hosts the Christmas Market, 26 November to 13 December 2026.

Recommended

Winter

Dec–Feb

2–8°C/ 36–47°F

Few visitorsWet
  • Bath Christmas Market
  • Quiet streets, few crowds
  • Coldest, wettest start to winter
  • Daylight ends before 17:00

Don't miss

  • Bath Christmas Market, 26 November to 13 December 2026

Spring

Mar–May

6–14°C/ 42–57°F

Getting busierOccasional rain
  • Bath Literature Festival
  • Unsettled, showery weather
  • Crowds start building

Don't miss

  • Bath Literature Festival, late February into March

Early summer

Jun–Jul

12–21°C/ 53–70°F

BusyDry
  • Warmest, driest weeks
  • Peak season prices begin

Late summer

Aug

13–22°C/ 55–71°F

Peak seasonOccasional rain
  • Long evenings outdoors
  • Bath Pride
  • School holidays, the busiest month
  • Rain jumps back up to 74mm

Don't miss

  • Bath Pride, Saturday 22 August 2026

Early autumn

Sep

10–19°C/ 51–66°F

BusyOccasional rain
  • Jane Austen Festival
  • Rain returns after August

Don't miss

  • Jane Austen Festival, September

Late autumn

Oct–Nov

6–13°C/ 44–56°F

Few visitorsWet
  • Wettest months, 87mm and 89mm
  • Nights close in by 17:00

Transport

How to get to & around Bath

Bristol Airport

How to get to & around Bath
First Bus A4 Airport Flyer60-75 min£9.50
Metered taxi or rideshare35-45 min~£35.00

London Paddington

How to get to & around Bath
GWR direct train to Bath Spa73 min£13.30

Bristol Temple Meads

How to get to & around Bath
GWR train to Bath Spa11 min£10.20

Local bus (First Bus)

£3.00 fare cap

First Bus covers the city and outlying villages. Every single fare in England is capped by the government at £3.00, and Tap On, Tap Off charges the best fare automatically and caps your daily spend.

Walking

Best in the centre

The Georgian core is compact, with the main sights within about a kilometre of each other. Streets are paved with worn stone flags and cobbles, so wear flat, grippy shoes, especially in wet weather.

Taxi and rideshare

Late nights, luggage

Metered taxis and Uber operate across the city. Expect a start charge around £2.60 plus roughly £2.00 a mile, so a short hop across the centre runs about £6.50 to £9.00.

City cycling

Resident-only bikes

Bath's short-term hire bikes need a resident registration and local address, so visitors cannot sign up on the spot. Cycle lanes are limited and the climbs to Lansdown or Combe Down are steep.

Walk the compact World Heritage core. Use First Bus, capped at £3.00 a trip, for the hilltop suburbs, and skip the bike hire scheme: it needs a resident address visitors cannot get.

Budget

How much does it cost to visit Bath?

Bath is one of England's pricier cities outside London: a pub lunch alone can reach £25 and a pint averages £5.00 to £7.00. Getting around is cheap by contrast, First Bus fares are capped at £3.00, falling to £2.00 from January 2027, and most centre journeys cost £2.40 to £2.80. Unlike many European tourist cities, Bath charges no visitor levy.

How much does it cost to visit Bath?
Coffee (cappuccino)£3.50–£5.50
Lunch, inexpensive restaurant£15.00–£25.00
Pint of local beer£5.00–£7.00
Bottled water, 500ml£1.00–£2.50
Local bus single (capped)£2.40–£2.80
Taxi across the centre£6.50–£9.00
Taxi or rideshare, Bristol Airport~£30.00–~£45.00

Cash or card?

Cards and contactless are accepted almost everywhere, including buses, Park and Ride and most taxis. Keep a little cash for small stalls at the Saturday farmers' market and independent Walcot Street shops. ATMs are common with no local surcharge.

Where to stay

Where to stay in Bath

Central Bath

First visit, walkable

Streets around the Abbey put you steps from every stop on a walking route. Hotel rates here are the highest in the city and weekend evenings bring noise from Milsom Street and nearby pubs.

Walcot and Green Park

Independent shops, markets

Walcot Street runs antique shops, a Saturday farmers' market and live music pubs about ten minutes' walk from the centre. Terraced streets are narrow and on-street parking is scarce.

Bathwick

Quieter, still central

Georgian terraces climb the hillside east of the river, a short walk over a footbridge to the centre. Some streets are a stiff climb and there is little on your doorstep beyond a few cafes.

Combe Down

Village feel, family stays

A former stone mining village on the hilltop south of the centre, with its own shops and a slower pace. Reaching the centre means a steep walk down and back up, or a 20 to 30 minute bus.

Larkhall

Local life, lower prices

A residential high street north of the centre with cafes and guesthouses cheaper than the tourist core. It is beyond comfortable walking distance of the sights and bypass traffic can be noisy.

The tours

Bath, one story at a time

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Safety

Is Bath safe?

Bath has low crime by UK standards and violent crime against visitors is rare. Official advice flags petty theft in crowds, an occasional distraction scam and traffic on narrow historic lanes shared by buses, taxis and cyclists. Keep bags zipped in queues and crowds and you lose little to it.

Theft in crowds

Bag snatching and pickpocketing cluster around the busiest tourist pinch points and the bus and train stations, worse during the Christmas Market from late November. Keep bags zipped and to the front, and do not leave phones on cafe tables.

Narrow historic lanes

Cobbled streets in the World Heritage core carry buses, taxis and cyclists through gaps built for horses and carts, not tourists. Use marked crossings on Milsom Street and Victoria Park and look both ways on one way lanes.

Clean Air Zone

The city centre Class C Clean Air Zone runs all day, every day. Non-compliant taxis and vans pay £9.00 a day, non-compliant buses and HGVs pay £100.00. Private cars, including hire cars, pay nothing regardless of emissions standard.

Reporting a theft

For an insurance claim you need a crime reference number. Call Avon and Somerset Police on 101 for anything that is not an emergency, or report online, and get the reference before you leave Bath.

Medical help

Dial 999 or 112 for a genuine emergency. For urgent but non-life-threatening problems, call NHS 111, which can direct you to a pharmacist, a GP or the Royal United Hospital's emergency department on the edge of the city.

Good to know

Good to know

Sundays run shorter hours

Many independent shops and some cafes close by 17:00 on Sundays, though pubs and restaurants generally stay open as normal. Plan any shopping for earlier in the weekend.

Watch your footing

Georgian floors and the cobbled sections of the centre are original stone, uneven and slippery when wet. Flat shoes with grip matter more here than in most English cities.

The whole centre is protected

Bath's Georgian core was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 and sits inside a conservation area. Alterations to the honey coloured Bath stone buildings, including signage and paint colour, are tightly controlled.

Park outside, not in

Central parking is scarce and expensive. Three official Park and Ride sites, Lansdown, Newbridge and Odd Down, run buses into the centre roughly every 12 to 15 minutes and are the practical option for anyone arriving by car.

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Questions

Bath FAQ

The First Bus A4 Airport Flyer runs hourly from Bristol Airport to central Bath. It takes roughly 60 to 75 minutes and an adult single is £9.50, a return £16.00, bought on board or in advance. A metered taxi covers the same trip in 35 to 45 minutes but typically costs £30 to £45.

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